It's you against the ocean!

"It's like being reborn, no seriously, it's like coming out of your mother's womb all over again" was Tomas trying to explain to me, the feeling of riding a tube. We were sitting in the beach bar after my surf lesson. I was drinking Coke, and he, as a real surfer, had a Corona in his hand.  For all the surfers I met around the world surfing has been their life, but nobody couldn't explain the real surfer's lifestyle, as Tomas did.

I was just parking my car and saw him approaching on his cool bycycle, with a big smile on his face.  He's living on the beach of Luquillo, town, which always offers great waves and friendly people, but most of all, a unique relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. He has been riding for over 50 years and is one of the first big wave riders in Puerto Rico. Living 15 years in Hawaii, definitely put him somewhere on the map of great surfers. 

"Surfing addicts you, It becomes your way of life, nothing matters anymore, surf is your life" he says with passion and complete dedication in his eyes. "You go in the water and you leave all your problems with money, boyfriend/girlfriend or family on the beach. You're in the water, and problems are on the beach! It's you against the ocean! You can't think about your problems while in the water, because you have to stay focus, otherwise you're going to get smashed big time. It's like some kind of therapy!" explains why all surfers are so chilled! "

"Maja! You never turn your back against the ocean, remember never!" was one of the first advices he gave me, while we were in the water. I asked him why he thinks surfing is so addictive? "It's you against the ocean, you against the nature, when you're riding the waves, you've conquered the nature, you are above anything, you're controlling the nature!"

"Maja, what do you do?" he asks me. "I'm a writer, I write about the world and people I meet!" I say. "Well, I hope one day you can write about me!" "I sure will, Tomas!" and so we parted, he disappeared between the tropical palm trees on his bicycle and I sat in my car and drove away chilled and relaxed, as I had my head clear and my mind peaceful. 

Till Tuesday when we meet again, so he can present me another part of his home, The Ocean!!!:))

Mayita